Updated March 31, 2022: If you are planning a visit to Rome, please keep in mind how fragile the restaurant business is right now. If you make a booking, don’t show up late or no-show. Cancel well in advance if you know you can’t make it. Order multiple dishes to make your taking up a place in a time of limited capacity worthwhile to the establishment (you don’t have to do the whole 5-course feast but ordering just a pasta isn’t really the move right now). Although I am generally an advocate of tipping like a local (a few symbolic euros on a trattoria check used to do it), consider leaving a bit more if you can.
With a city nicknamed Caput Mundi—Capital of the World—it’s only natural that Romans are accustomed to seeing their home as unrivaled in matters of history, culture, and food. And while it’s true that traditional local cuisine holds a sacred place at the table, the Rome is hardly impervious to change. The city’s classics, from carbonara to cacio e pepe, are still universally beloved, but Rome’s dining and drinking culture, like that of all cities, is in a constant state of evolution (albeit at a glacial pace compared to New York, Paris or London). Recently, tightening purse strings, transitioning food systems, covid restrictions, and changing palates have conspired to create exciting new ways of dining, drinking, and shopping for food. There have also been a shocking number of new openings in the past year, especially bars and bistrots that don’t quite hit the mark. But this is no time to single out the many disappointing places I have tried recently. Let’s focus on what’s great about eating and drinking in Rome right now!
The innovative features of Rome’s flourishing food and drinks scene are at their best when they use tradition as a foundation: neo-trattorias like Santo Palato, Romanè, and Trecca serve honest classics with a few clever twists, while the booming independent enoteca scene, embodied by wine bars like La Mescita, Litro, L’Antidoto, and Mostò embrace natural and traditional wines. Craft beer pubs like Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa’, Open Baladin, and Artisan, run by enthusiastic experts, promote small producers over conventional choices. Places like Sorso, Latta, Fischio, and Circoletto give equal weight to craft beer and natural wines. Meanwhile, a revived interest in food provenance has given rise to a growing number of farmers’ markets, which contrary to popular belief are relative newcomers to the city’s gastronomic landscape (hire me for a tour and we can talk all about it). If you’re looking for fresh, seasonal produce directly from farms, visit the stalls in the south side of the Mercato Trionfale near the fish mongers. There, and elsewhere in town, the light and dark green banners hanging in stalls announcing “ALBO PRODUTTORI AGRICOLI IN VENDITA DIRETTA” signal that you’re at a stall run by a farm (the others sell produce sourced from a wholesale market).
Visitors to the Italian capital will be endlessly satisfied, whether they are after traditional foods or fresh flavors–but only if they know exactly where to look! So, where should you eat, drink, and shop for food in Rome? SO MANY AWESOME PLACES. I have so many resources dispersed over so many platforms. Take a spin on my clips page to find guides and articles for NYT, Bon App, Punch, and more. My Eater 38 Guide to Rome will be updated quarterly beginning in May.
Here’s a more succinct guide to my personally and independently* vetted recommendations for dining, drinking, and shopping for food and booze in Rome.
If you are after traditional cucina romana, Armando al Pantheon and Cesare al Casaletto are so good, but book well in advance if you want to score a table. I also love Piatto Romano in Testaccio, which is especially good for vegetables, though they serve offal, too, so it scratches that itch when you’re craving fibre but also want pajata. For affordable, abundant comfort food, I visit the raucous Osteria Bonelli in Torpignattara. And for super honest, affordable, delicious Roman/Umbrian/Sardinian specialties, plus pizza, served with a smile, Tavernaccia Da Bruno is it. It’s seriously the best. I also love Al Moro near the Trevi Fountain for that super old school vibe with typically aloof service. If you don’t mind being mistreated, you will enjoy it, too.
Roscioli and Santo Palato may not serve explicitly traditional classics, instead blending modern techniques with local flavors, but both are excellent and you’d be hard-pressed to find a better gricia than that at Roscioli or more exciting twists on offal than chef Sarah Ciccolini serves at Santo Palato. I have a handy guide for getting the most out of your visit to Roscioli, a must-read before this must-visit. Relative newcomers Romanè, and Trecca also worth a visit, especially for very seriously heavy classics.
For thick-rimmed pizza, check out Tonda, Sforno, Sbanco, and La Gatta Mangiona, while Da Remo and Pizzeria Ostiense serve excellent thin crust Roman pies. 180g Pizzeria Romana does thin-crust Roman style with a gourmet flare. Don’t miss pizza by the slice at Pizzarium and Panificio Bonci in the Trionfale district (or Bonci’s bakery in the Mercato Centrale in the train station). I also like Prelibato in Monteverde for a slice. The pizza bianca at Antico Forno Roscioli and pizza rossa at Forno Campo de’ Fiori are delicious, as are the various flavored slices at the latter (Forno Roscioli’s pizzas are heavy IMO). For tasty little pizzette, visit Da Artenio in the Mercato di Testaccio. While you’re at the market, pop over to Casa Manco for slices (they have a location in Trastevere now, too). Neapolitan imports I Quintili in Furio Camillo is fun and does delicious fritti. Visit the OG pinseria La Pratolina for pinsa romana (or bake your own)! For a round-up of these and other favorite places for pizza in Rome, take a peek at this article I wrote for the sadly defunct Lucky Peach Magazine.
You may wish to give fine dining a pass. So much of it is so disappointing, derivative, and precious. Sadly, Metamorfosi in Parioli has closed. Zia in Trastevere, which has 1 Michelin star, will scratch the formal service itch if that’s what you need and the kitchen does nice modern fare. Across town near Piazza del Popolo, Marzapane has a new location and new chefs. It isn’t super formal but the dishes are polished and feature a fun mix of Italian ingredients infused with international techniques.
The finest fish in town is at Tempio di Iside. I love raw dishes, fried starters, and seafood pasta.
For kosher meals, try C’e’ Pasta…e Pasta, which serves Roman Jewish classics cafeteria-style. In the Ghetto, Boccione Il Forno del Ghetto does amazing fruitcake called pizza ebraica, as well as spectacular almond paste and ricotta cakes. Nearby, Nonna Betta serves kosher-style food in a restaurant setting. Stick to the the pezzetti fritti, concia (fried and marinated zucchini) carciofi alla giudia (in season in the winter), and spaghetti con bottarga e cicoria.
Go to Testaccio or San Giovanni for brisket or artichoke or kidney sandwiches at Mordi e Vai. The trapizzini at the growing number of Trapizzino shops are a must (especially the chicken cacciatore)! The suppli’, potato croquettes, and fried pastry cream at Supplizio are super tasty. Hole-in-the-wall Er Buchetto near Stazione Termini is a classic for a quick porchetta sandwich (but for Rome’s best, hit up Panificio Bonci). Legs in Centocelle, brought to you by the guys behind Artisan and the duo behind Mazzo (currently on hiatus), serves burgers, fried chicken, and wings in the old Mazzo space.
Gelato & Pastries
During holiday season, don’t miss the chance to fill your luggage with panettoni from Panificio Bonci and Santi Sebastiano e Valentino.
Wine & Beer
Thristy? My favorite places to drink wine are La Mescita, Mostò, Litro, Il Sorì, Bulzoni Il Goccetto, L’Angolo Divino, Vigneto, La Barrique, Enoteca Il Piccolo, Barnaba, and L’Antidoto. As mentioned above, Sorso, Latta, Fischio, and Circoletto do beer and wine and are equally awesome.
Salumi & Formaggi & Pantry Items
If you love cheeses and cured meats, visit Formaggeria in the Piazza Epiro Market, DOL, Roscioli, Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi (Ghetto location is under restoration but they opened a stall in the Trionfale Market in December 2021; skip the cured meats there and stick to the cheeses). I buy cheeses and cured meats to take home from La Tradizione and Roscioli (both vacuum seal things for air travel, too).
There are well over 100 municipal markets in Rome, so no matter where you’re staying, you’re likely within walking distance of one. My favorites are Mercato Trionfale just north of the Vatican Museums’ main entrance. It is perfect and, although I live between two markets in Monteverde, I regularly make the downhill trip to Trionfale because it has plenty of famers’ stalls, great butchers, wonderful fishmongers, and some ace alimentari selling cheeses and cured meats. The Mercato Trionfale is always my first stop on my favorite food tour. The Testaccio Market is great, as well, and offers plenty of in-market dining. My faves are Mordi e Vai for sandwiches, Da Artenio for pizzette and baked goods, Casa Manco for pizza by the slice, Sartor for meat, and Da Corrado for wine and cheese. From an architectural standpoint, the markets in Piazza dell’Unità and Piazza Alessandria are stunning. For international produce, halal meat, and a wonderful array of ingredients from South Asia, Sub-Saharan Africa, and Eastern Europe, visit the Mercato Esquilinio near Stazione Termini.
It’s impossible to get a full understanding of Rome if you stick just to carbonara and cacio e pepe. The city vibrant immigrant communities and their cuisines are more than worth a detour from the Roman canon and it is not an exaggeration to say that the soulful dishes of Himalaya Palace near Villa Pamphilj got me through lockdown. There is incredible Ethiopian and Eritrean food at Enqutatash on the Via Prenestina. Sinosteria in Viale Marconi does ace Chinese regional cuisine and has a very good wine list. Visit Janta Fast Food for cafeteria-style northern Indian dishes and Kiko for sushi. Dumpling Bar serves…dumplings! Neighborhood Restaurant serves excellent Filipino & Kapampangan cuisines. Korean restaurant Igio in Trastevere is delightful and opens at 6PM for early dining. Roy Caceres’ Carnal does good tacos and arepas.
In the regional Italian category, Trattoria Monti is wonderful for specialties from Le Marche. Tram Tram is great for fish and vegetable classics from Puglia. Colline Emiliane does amazing food from around Bologna like tortellini in brodo and tagliatelle al ragù and Tavernaccia da Bruno always features Umbrian dishes from the owners’ father’s homeland.
Guides for Various Publications
Where to Eat and Drink in San Lorenzo (Bon Appetit)
The New Wave of Roman Pizza (Eater)
Best Pizza in Rome (Condé Nast Traveler)
Rome’s Disappearing Dishes (Saveur)
Rome Restaurants: New Takes on the Classics (Food & Wine)
Rome City Guide (The Infatuation)
Friday Fives: Katie Parla’s Guide To Rome (The Infatuation)
5 Under the Radar Spots (Vogue)
Travel Guide: Rome (Saveur)
The Pinnacle of Pasta: The Top 9 Plates of Pasta in Rome (Bon Appetit)
Katie Parla’s Guide to Rome (Imbibe)
City Guide: Rome (PUNCH)
Where to Eat in Rome (Serious Eats)
Where to Eat, Drink, and Sleep in Rome (Bon Appetit)
Roman Holiday (Imbibe)
Ask an Expert: Katie Parla (AFAR)
“Saturday Night in Rome” (PUNCH)
A Boozy Tour of Rome (Fathom)
10 Ways to Enjoy Rome on a Budget (The Guardian)
Unmissable Spring Foods in Rome (The Local)
Rome’s New Take on Pizza (The Guardian)
Rome Street Food (Food & Wine)
You Tube Series & Television Programs
Back in the day I teamed up with my super talented friend Kat Tan Conte to create YouTube videos documenting neighborhoods and Roman food themes. You can find the videos over on my You Tube channel. Or check out my Emmy-nominated TV series “Katie Parla’s Rome” (2020) and “Katie Parla’s Roman Kitchen” (2021-2022).
*I do not accept comps, freebies, press invites or any other such form of exchange. I cannot stress enough how rare this is in this town.