For me, nothing says summer like a bit of boiled veal muzzle or cow nuckle spritzed with lemon. These southern Italian specialties (look for them in the markets of Palermo and Naples) are diced up to order and served as a refreshing snack. Yesterday, I spied some as I strolled through Borgo Vecchio in Palermo, though you can also find it in the Capo, Vucciria, and Ballaro’ markets; look for them in Pignasecca and Forcella in Naples. Who needs gelato?