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Rome Walking Tours
Food of the Italian South
TV & Video
Venice is a tough city for food–and an expensive one, too, especially if you’re accustomed to cities like Rome where you can eat very well on a budget. If you plan ahead and make bookings at restaurants well in advance, you will enjoy Venetian dining, particularly if you are OK budgeting €75 and up per person for a meal including wine. I love institutions like
where everything is very good,
for fish, and
is great for pasta, fritto misto and a very good grappa selection.
Vini da Gigio
is another favorite for Venetian classics and a deep wine cellar.
, which are more contemporary, are lovely, too, and book out well in advance.
For really good bites standing up at a bar counter, the super famous Cantine del Vino già Schiavi is reliably delicious and serves little shots of wine (ombre) for €1.00. Sepa near Rialto is fun and on the other side of the bridge, Al Mercà near the Rialto Market does some sought-after natural wines by the glass alongside everyday drinking options and the sandwiches are great. Pop in next door at Casa del Parmigiano for cheeses and cured meats, then hit Rialto Market (mornings only, Monday to Saturday) for a crash course in Veneto’s produce–look for vegetables from the nearby island of S. Erasmo–and lagoon fish. Also near Rialto is All’Arco, one of my grab a bite and a drink on the fly.
For seated natural wines and snacks, I love
(and their adjacent restaurant, Rioba) and Adriatico Mar. Vino Vero has a great wine list but the service can be super condescending and Stappo has an excellent wine list, though their markup is higher than the competition and the cellar includes a number of problematic wine makers.
is amazing for a quick glass and a tramezzino–I prefer this to sitting down to a full-on meal there.
just down the street is legendary for pastries.
Dal Nono Colussi
and Bar Toletta are fantastic, as well, especially around Carnevale when they serve warm frittole (sweet dough fritters). Torrefazione Canareggio does excellent coffee. For more drinking tips, read my lates for Prior
If you’re on the move in the lagoon, visit
Trattoria alla Maddalena
in Mazzorbo and
in Burano. In Murano,
is the only really outstanding restaurant, while La Perla ai Bisatei does an excellent frittura di calamari and it’s a quick walk to Murano Gelateria in Calle Dal Mistro for a couple scoops. And while you’re in Murano visit
Wave Murano Glass
glass making experiences
, and glass shopping! (Full disclosure: Wave founder is my boyfriend). If you want your own private transport around the lagoon, I recommend hiring a boat from
Classic Boats Venice