/Eating in Rome on a Sunday

Eating in Rome on a Sunday

trattoria monti

UPDATED FOR 2017: Every Sunday I run into the same predicament. I want to eat a really good meal out, but somehow during the week I’ve forgotten how tough it is to get a last minute table. Inevitably I scramble for reservations and try to accommodate my increasingly picky palate. Don’t make my habitual error; remember that tables at great dining venues are scarce on Sundays, so be sure to book ahead where possible (no bookings taken at Trapizzino and Pizzarium). And of course start the day with a coffee and a pastry at Roscioli Caffe or Pasticceria Regoli.

Open for Lunch & Dinner

Cesare al Casaletto
Via del Casaletto 45 (Portuense)
Unbelievable fritti, solid Roman fare, and an excellent wine list make Cesare al Casaletto a favorite Sunday dining destination.

Tavernaccia da Bruno
Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese 63 (Trastevere)
Opened in southern Trastevere in 1968 by Bruno Persiani, an Umbrian transplant to the Italian capital, this homey trattoria serves a mix of dishes from Umbria and Rome. Tavernaccia is now run by Persiani’s daughters and a Sardinian son-in-law who throws in a few of his own regional specialties like suckling pig cooked in the wood-burning oven. The fresh pastas are excellent (especially Sunday’s lasagna, which sells out quickly) and the wood oven-roasted brisket is otherworldly. Organic and natural wines from Italy and Slovenia round out the wine list.

Tram Tram
Via dei Reti 44 (San Lorenzo)
In San Lorenzo, a district near La Sapienza University, this family-run trattoria serves carnivorous Roman fare and seafood dishes influenced by Puglia’s coastal cuisine. The sparsely decorated dining rooms welcome workers and families hungry for seafood pasta, pureed fava beans paired with simmered dandelion greens, and a respectable wine list.

Emma Pizzeria con Cucina
Via Monte Della Farina 29 (Centro Storico)
Emma’s fried starters like supplì (rice croquettes), fiori di zucca (fried squash blossoms filled with ricotta and anchovy), and mixed fried vegetables are consistently good and should be followed up with thin-crusted, Roman-style personal pizzas. Many of the pizza toppings are sourced from nearby Salumeria Roscioli, as are the cheese and cured meat plates. Pies range from the basic margherita to the luxurious jamón ibérico.

Santo Palato
Piazza Tarquinia, 4a/b (Appio-Latino)
Chef Sarah Cicolini earned her reputation in fine dining kitchens, but her forte is expertly executed trattoria fare that channels the soulful simplicity of Rome’s peasant classics — a refreshing change in a city where young chefs frequently try and fail to modernize the local cuisine. Diners visit Cicolini’s ochre-hued dining room in the residential Appio-Latino quarter for soulfully rendered Roman classics.

La Torricella
Via Evangelista Torricelli 2/12 (Testaccio)
In Testaccio’s sea of mediocre restaurants, La Torricella stands out for its fresh fish and tasty primi.

Nonna Betta
Via del Portico d’Ottavia 16 (Ghetto)
This “Kosher style” restaurant in the Ghetto serves some of the best Jewish Roman cuisine in town (though, to be frank, the competition isn’t that fierce). In addition to the traditional local dishes (fried artichokes, fried vegetables, fried cod filets, fried zucchini flowers, anchovies with endive, and tagliolini with chicory and bottarga), there is also a selection of Middle Eastern specialities such as falafel, couscous and tuna with tahini.

Food & Beverages (aka F&B and Hong Kong Food & Beverages)
Via Giolitti 105/113 (Termini)
Here, as in the other Chinese restaurants in Rome, the menu items which have been translated into Italian are bound to disappoint and indeed are not the ones you see Chinese families enjoying at the adjacent table. At F&B, ask to see the dishes displayed in the case at the back, things lik duck tongues, pork/chicken/prawn sticks deep fried to order, fried crab, and chicken feet. If you call ahead, they will prepare Peking duck.

Antico Arco
Piazzale Aurelio 7 (Gianicolo)
Situated on the Janiculum Hill near Porta San Pancrazio, Antico Arco serves carefully prepared dishes that blend creativity with southern Italian ingredients.

Settimio al Pellegrino
Via del Pellegrino 117 (Centro Storico)
It helps to be a regular here, or prepared to be ignored in favor of those who are. The service can be slow and the food is simple, with a limited selection of first and second courses and contorni (vegetable side dishes). Somehow the montblanc makes up for the place’s shortcomings.

Piatto Romano
Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 62 (Testaccio)
Located in Testaccio, Rome’s undisputed offal capital, Piatto Romano focuses on classics like rigatoni con la pajata (pasta with veal or lamb intestines cooked in tomato sauce) and fettuccine con le rigaglie di pollo (with chicken innards) but there are plenty of pescatarian options, as well, like the outstanding cod baked with onions, pine nuts, and prunes.

C’è pasta e pasta
Via Ettore Rolli 29 (Trastevere)
Located a short distance from Stazione Trastevere (and at the edge of the Porta Portese flea market), C’è Pasta…e Pasta (translation: “there’s pasta…and pasta”) serves delicious kosher meals to eat in or take away. Order at the counter and don’t miss Roman Jewish classics like filetti di baccalà (battered fried cod), aliciotti con l’indivia, and concia (marinated zucchini).

L’Osteria di Birra del Borgo
Via Silla 26a (Prati)
The newest venture from Birra del Borgo, a beer company based in the north of Rome, pours plenty of beer, but also serves a full food menu from Gabriele Bonci, acclaimed baker and owner of nearby Pizzarium. There are a handful of front-row seats by the pizza station, where Bonci’s team prepares garnished flatbreads, the stars at Osteria del Borgo. The menu also includes pasta dishes, grilled and cured meats, and cheese plates. The drink selection is split between Birra del Borgo brand beers, an assortment of domestic and imported craft brews, and beer-based cocktails curated by the Jerry Thomas Project, Rome’s top craft cocktail bar.

Open Baladin
Via degli Specchi 6 (Centro Storico)
Open all day and late into the evening, this pub is perfect for a quick plate of potato croquettes and a craft beer flight.

Janta Fast Food
Via Mamiani 11 (Esquilino)
This Indian cafeteria and takeaway spot (formerly Kabir Fast Food) has been serving tasty curries, stews, and many vegetarian/vegan/gluten free dishes in a spartan dining room just off Piazza Vittorio since 1996. Start with fried vegetable samosas or pakoras and finish with one of the tooth-achingly sweet desserts, such as ras gulla or gulab jamun

Osteria Bonelli
Viale dell’Acquedotto Alessandrino 172 (Torpignattara)
The menu, which is written on folding chalkboards, circulates through the osteria’s dining room listing dishes rooted in Roman peasant cooking like horse skirt steak and stewed tripe. Osteria Bonelli is located in eastern Rome and well beyond the third century Aurelian walls. To get there, hop on the Giardinetti-bound commuter train from Termini or Porta Maggiore and get off at the Berardi stop.

Ali Babà
Via dell’Arco di Travertino 27 (Tuscolano)
This kebab shop and takeaway joint is worth a trip on the Metro A (get off at Arco di Travertino) for quick and delicious Syrian food. Order assorted kibbeh (bulgur and spiced meat croquettes) and brik (savory phyllo pastry) to start, followed by lamb or chicken kebabs sliced from vertical spits and wrapped in house-made lavash flatbread.

Trapizzino
Via Giovanni Branca 88 (Testaccio)
Excellent suppli’ and trapizzini (triangles of fluffy pizza bianca filled with sauces that recall the cucina romana–tripe, tongue, oxtail, meatballs, or salt cod) make Trapizzino a great spot for a no-frills snack or meal. No reservations or table service. Other locations include Ponte Milvio, Mercato Centrale, and inside Be.Re. in Prati (see below).

Be.Re.
Piazza Risorgimento 7A (Prati)
Open non-stop from 11am until 2am, this craft beer pub near the Vatican walls serves trapizzini (see above) and an excellent array of artisanal beers. My favorite trapizzino filling is pollo alla cacciatora, a hearty, vinegar-spiked chicken stew.

Pizzarium
Via Meloria 43 (Cipro)
Gabriele Bonci’s famed pizza by the slice joint serves some of the best pizza in town. Toppings change throughout the day and are made from top-notch products. Pizzarium also sells excellent bread and suppli’ (fried rice balls with various fillings). It is a mistake not to start with one. No reservations and no table service. Closes at 10:00pm but last pies come out of the oven around 8:00pm.

la campana

Open at Lunch Only

Colline Emiliane
Via degli Avignonesi 22 (Barberini)
This rather small family run restaurant serves some of the best fresh pasta in Rome. Bolognese specialties such tagliatelle alla bolognese tortelli di zucca, and lasagna al forno.

Piperno
Via Monte de’ Cenci 9 (Ghetto)
This institution serves Roman Jewish cuisine and lots of offal, as well as land and sea inspired pasta dishes. Piperno is unfortunately past its prime and a bit overpriced, but it’s hard to beat the fritti (fried starters) and the outdoor seating in the summer is lovely.

Trattoria Monti
Via San Vito 13 (Esquilino)
The Camerucci family, originally from Le Marche, serves food from their native region in this long established trattoria. Their starters (especially the sformatini) and pasta courses are their strong suits. Book well in advance.

Caffè Nemorense
Via Nemorense (Salaria)
Caffè Nemorense, is located in a kiosk at the eastern end of leafy Parco Virgiliano in northern Rome. The cafe serves yogurt with granola, organic salads, sandwiches, craft beer, and aperitifs daily and on weekends, there’s a vegetarian buffet as well as a stall selling farm-fresh produce.

La Gatta Mangiona

Open at Dinner Only

Pizzeria Ostiense
Via Ostiense 56 (Ostiense)
Pizzeria Ostiense is the quintessential Roman pizzeria: bright lights, jocular service, and super thin pizzas with a slightly chewy, barely raised rim. It’s a neighborhood joint and most clients eat here for the convenience, atmosphere, and value, while I cross the river regularly to visit Pizzeria Ostiense, which I think is one of the best spots in town for thin-crusted Roman-style pies. Two of its owners previously worked at Da Remo in Testaccio, a beloved venue serving the classic local pizza style, so in spite of only being two years old, Ostiense has the street cred of a Roman institution.

La Gatta Mangiona
Via F. Ozanam 30/32 (Monteverde)
This pizzeria and trattoria in Monteverde serves excellent fried starters and pizzas. The beer list is extensive and there is an impressive selection of wine, whiskey and grappa. NB: It’s packed on Sundays and the pizza isn’t at its best.

Tonda
Via Valle Corteno 31 (Nomentano)
Amazing fried starters, a great beer and wine list, and outstanding pizza. The definitive carb-driven Sunday dinner.

Sbanco
Via Siria 1 (Appio-Latino)
This pizzeria-ristorante near San Giovanni is the newest venue from Stefano Callegari, Rome’s foremost pizza entrepreneur (See Sforno, below). Here he teams up with Italian craft brewery Birrificio del Ducato to serve thick-rimmed pizzas baked in a domed, wood-burning Valoriani oven alongside 15 draft beers. In addition to pizza and beer, Sbanco also serves meat dishes and creatively flavored supplì.

Mesob
Via Prenestina 118 (Pigneto)
Rome’s best Ethiopian restaurant (indeed one of the best in any genre) lies on the Via Prenestina, not far from the heart of Pigneto. The vegetarian dishes and doro wot are exceptional and the injera is perfect.

Avoid! Avoid!

As always, here are a few places I dislike intensely, find overrated, and would discourage visiting for Sunday lunch, or any other meal for that matter: Pierluigi and especially Da Giggetto.

2017-11-04T19:48:42+00:00 November 4th, 2017|Categories: Food & Wine, Restaurants, Rome & Lazio, Rome Dining Advice|48 Comments

48 Comments

  1. Michele C March 27, 2011 at 10:41 am - Reply

    Good choice of places!

    Especially those at Esquilino.

  2. Chiara March 27, 2011 at 12:24 pm - Reply

    Completely agree with the AVOID list!!!

  3. Max March 27, 2011 at 12:42 pm - Reply

    I am now sat contemplating a London Italian lunch, stomach growling inpatiently… will it be Franco Manca, Il Bordello… decisions, decisions. I should learn not to read such delights when hungry!

  4. Rosemary March 27, 2011 at 5:50 pm - Reply

    I always have the same problem, exacerbated by the fact that I like buying tickets to the Gallery Borghese on Sunday morning. There is NO WHERE to eat lunch around there after wards. I’ll have to remember to save Colline Emiliane for then.

  5. Elizabeth Minchilli March 27, 2011 at 6:21 pm - Reply

    Thanks for the Sunday round up, since people are always asking for advice. I agree with all, except we had a pretty bad meal at Nonna Betta the other day. I agree with most of your avoids, but always eat well at both Giggetto, and PierLuigi (although I think the settings are gorgeous, which to me always improves the food).

  6. jo March 27, 2011 at 10:56 pm - Reply

    It used to be be that Sundays were not a ‘proper’ day to eat out .. in any country, not just in Italy. It was supposed to be the day one ate at home. You would never find a posh restaurant open for dinner on a Sunday … it just wasn’t on (again, in any country). In Rome, then, the idea was to eat ‘fuori porta’ … out in the country or in the Castelli. So that might explain the dearth of good eateries on a Sunday, sad though it may sound.

    Shame about your knocking Checco er Carrettiere … I’ve always eaten really well there (though not on a Sunday, admittedly) … have you ever been to their sister Trat called “Pecorono” in Testaccio …??? good stuff, always full, with a faint air of a brasserie about it even though it’s all local roman tradition (including mash potatoes with tomatoes) …

  7. semsa denizsel March 27, 2011 at 11:53 pm - Reply

    sooo many places I haven’t been. I need to come back.

  8. Katie March 28, 2011 at 5:30 pm - Reply

    @Max mmm…Franco Manca….Havent been to Bordello what’s it like?

    @Rosemary yes it is a bit of a nightmare to eat in those parts. Al Ceppo is closer to the Borghese Gallery than CE, but it is expensive.

    @Elizabeth bummer about Nonna Betta. Hope it wasnt the pezzetti fritti or torta di ricotta!

    @jo never been to “Pecorino” thanks for the suggestion!!

    @semsa obviously you need to come back. and quick!!

  9. @passerotto March 29, 2011 at 2:03 am - Reply

    Must try Colline Emiliane, thanks for wonderful list, completely agree on the “Avoid” ones. Will you have that feature on the app? 😉

  10. Angela De Marco March 29, 2011 at 5:12 pm - Reply

    Add one more to your list, when I visit Rome I always go here for Sunday lunch. Il Matriciano in Via dei Gracchi.

  11. Angela De Marco March 29, 2011 at 5:13 pm - Reply

    Il Matriciano in Via dei Gracchi is wonderful for Sunday lunch as well.!!

  12. tavoleromane March 30, 2011 at 12:58 pm - Reply

    Thanks for sharing this great list Katie! It’s really helpful since Sunday options are limited.

    Few additional places we like are Brasserie 4:20 (dinner only, opens at 7pm on Sunday) and Giuda Ballerino (both Osteria and Restaurant are open for lunch and dinner). Have you been there?
    For traditional Roman food Flavio al Velavevodetto and Bucatino in Testaccio, also if here we found “rude” service sometimes…especially with tourists.

    Curious to know why you did not include OS Club (Sunday brunch and Iolanda restaurant).

    Want to try Mesob!!

  13. Mary April 23, 2011 at 5:26 am - Reply

    I’m responding rather late to this post, but have to agree with Elizabeth who puts Nonna Betta on her “avoid” list. We ate there on our last visit to Rome in September and dealt with perfunctory, indeed, surly service and mediocre food. On the other hand, had a fabulous lunch at Le Mani in Pasta (both of these Katie’s recommendations) where the waiter laughed at my clueless ordering of ovuli….I had forgotten the meaning of the word and was in for an amazing appetizer when he brought them to the table, shaved and tossed with sedano and parmigiana and dressed with olive oil. So…back to Le Mani when we return in June, but Nonna Betta is so off the list.

  14. […] much, Michele for your detailed report. I have duly struck Roma Sparita from the Easter dining and Sunday dining, as I had meant to do this spring. Apologies for my negligence and I’m glad you enjoyed the […]

  15. Nicky O October 19, 2011 at 5:48 am - Reply

    Oh dear! I have seen you have crossed out Roma Sparita in a matter of days since I last looked. We have booked there for this Sunday lunch. Is there a reason you’ve deleted it, should we try and book elsewhere?

  16. Kristina October 19, 2011 at 3:32 pm - Reply

    I wanted to share an experience we had at La Campana for dinner last Sunday. We went, without reservations and although the restaurant was almost full, we were seated fairly quickly in the back dining room. It appeared to be 50/50 tourist/foreigners.

    Our waiter was harried but nice, and everyone there was running at full speed. We ordered very light, as it was out last night and we didn’t want a heavy meal before getting on the plane; Straccetti con Rucola, a pork dish and a side of Puntarelle. The waiter came back to say there was no more pork and my mother ordered the abbacchio a scottadito.

    The puntarelle was fine, and the lamb, while not the small chops my mother was expecting, was very good.
    My straccetti however, was also not what I was expecting and not to my liking. It was a mass of very finely chopped meat, sauteed in an abundance of butter topped with arugula (I had been expecting the meat to be in larger pieces or strips, grilled, or at the very least, not well done and swimming in butter). It wasn’t bad, just not what I wanted and I only ate a few bites.

    When the waiter checked back at the end of the meal and saw I had not eaten, he asked why. I explained to him I didn’t like it (I also verified the butter which I’ve never seen in this dish before). He offered to bring me something else but I wasn’t hungry.

    Here’s the surprising part; I fully expected to pay for my dish but when the bill came, they had removed it. I don’t think I’ve ever had this happen in Italy. That’s a level of service I’ve rarely seen in almost a dozen trips. I was pleasantly surprised and just wanted to share the story because any restaurant that committed to their product deserves praise and notice.

  17. Rick Perkins October 16, 2012 at 8:00 pm - Reply

    All good but all very expensive recommendations. In the end not a very original list. There seems to be a copy-paste conspiracy for all of these places by Yankee Food Bloggers.

    • Katie October 16, 2012 at 9:34 pm - Reply

      I’ve noticed the same phenomenon, says the Yankee food historian Yankee food bloggers are copying. The irony? I’m a mets fan.

  18. Kelly January 4, 2013 at 1:43 am - Reply

    We really enjoyed Colline Emiliane. We ordered two of the three items you mentioned. Thanks for the tip!

  19. Hande January 4, 2013 at 4:28 pm - Reply

    Would Romeo also be in this list now?

  20. Engred January 4, 2013 at 8:48 pm - Reply

    Hey Katie – Who’s pasta dish in the picture? Julius saw it last night and exclaimed “I want some of that when we go back to Rome in September!”

  21. Engred January 4, 2013 at 8:49 pm - Reply

    And he will be happy to know you are a Mets fan – I knew there was another reason we liked you besides your devotion to food!

  22. Engred January 4, 2013 at 8:55 pm - Reply

    Absolutely K – I’ll email you when our plans get settled and hopefully we can at least meet for a drink!

  23. Katie January 4, 2013 at 8:53 pm - Reply

    @kelly love that place. such consistent food and lovely service.

    @hande yes! romeo is in:)

    @Engred the dish is mezze maniche with sausage and pecorino di fossa from Trattoria Monti. Love to the fam and hope we can connect in september!!

  24. Katie January 9, 2013 at 2:54 am - Reply

    @engred counting on it!!

  25. […] [6] In a lot of Eurpoean cities eating on Sunday can be a bit of a dilemmna.  Some of my worst meals have been on a Sunday when Mr. Misadventures and I did not plan ahead.  That’s why I really enjoyed (and will bookmark for my next trip) Katie of Parla Rome’s‘ recommendations for eating in Rome on Sunday. […]

  26. […] Eating in Rome on a Sunday […]

  27. MP Furr October 11, 2016 at 8:23 pm - Reply

    Katie, Can you expand on comments about Gusto—we are visiting in December and I had it on my list? After seeing your blog, feel I need to avoid. We have Emma on list.Most of our choices are from your app–I was looking for a pizza/informal place near Spanish Steps. Thanks so much! Love your app and blog!

  28. The Hi Society October 18, 2016 at 8:45 am - Reply

    Completely agree with the “Avoid”

    Gusto: has been horrendous for the past 11 years, even the wine bar is below par for the service and the fact that without fail, everytime i happen to go there, i get an extra charge added to the bill….so never ever again.

    PierLuigi: has good quality fish, the prices are RIDICULOUS, they just keep going up and up…This is definatley due to the notoriety that it has received from so many hollywood actors and fashion people who started going there. I just find it extremely touristy now and just not very pleasant. You can feel that its more a money making machine rather than a place where they take pride in what their doing….

  29. Santastico November 3, 2016 at 2:42 pm - Reply

    I would definitely add Flavio Al Velavevodetto to the AVOID list. Completely overrated tourist trap with terrible service. Osteria Bonelli, Emma Pizzeria and Due Ladroni were the best places we ate in Rome.

  30. Jenny November 27, 2016 at 3:32 pm - Reply

    Thanks for the suggestion of Tavernaccia da Bruno – we went for lunch on Sunday and loved it. It is smarter than the average trattoria and the food is more sophisticated, but still home-style cooking. We would never have stumbled across it as it is rather out of the way. We had the mixed bruschetta, spaghetti with a rabbit ragu and the eggplant parmigiana and it was all delicious.

  31. Carolyn January 23, 2017 at 12:42 am - Reply

    Hi Katie, thanks for this list! Is there any restaurant near Piazza Barberini, the Spanish Steps, and the surrounding area that you’d recommend for a Sunday dinner? We will be arriving in Rome from the US on a Sunday night and would want to eat near our hotel (Westin on Via Veneto) as I’m sure we will be exhausted. Grazie mille!

  32. Gisella March 8, 2017 at 7:02 pm - Reply

    I’m checking your blog because I’m planning a trip to Rome next year, hopefully, if everything falls into place. And thank you so much for your lists. I’m sad that some places have been crossed out, but hopeful I’ll still find great places to eat when I’m there.

    By the way, do you have any recommendation regarding desserts in Rome? Which ones I shouldn’t miss and where to get them, while I’m there?

    Grazie mille! (in advance) ^_^

  33. Gisella March 8, 2017 at 7:07 pm - Reply

    I’m checking your blog because I’m planning a trip to Rome next year, hopefully, if everything falls into place. And thank you so much for your list. I’m sad that some places have been crossed out, but hopeful I’ll still find great places to eat when I’m there.

    By the way, do you have any recommendation regarding desserts in Rome? Which ones I shouldn’t miss and where to get them, while I’m there?

    Grazie mille! (in advance) ^_^

    • Katie Parla March 11, 2017 at 3:04 pm - Reply

      check out my video and posts on regoli, andrea de bellis, and caffe roscioli!

      • Gisella March 14, 2017 at 8:24 pm - Reply

        Oh, wow! Thank you so much for these! ^_^

  34. Ash March 29, 2017 at 5:18 pm - Reply

    I also wanted to thank you so much for all these awesome tips. I’m in Rome over Easter weekend so definitely needing to book ahead. Is anyone able to advise the best way to do this online?
    Thanks!

    • Katie Parla April 5, 2017 at 1:14 am - Reply

      best way to book is to call during opening hours (1230-3 & 730-11 rome time). very few places have reliable online bookings but many do respond to FB messages. If i were you i’d call and make an easter sunday booking at cesare al casaletto!

      • Jenny April 14, 2017 at 4:38 pm - Reply

        Hi Katie! Just following up on Ash’s question: how challenging is it for non-Italian speakers to make phone reservations? (I’m currently considering Piatto Romano on a Sunday night…) Thank you so much for this blog (and your Eater list). I’m planning a trip to Rome and basically just structuring it around your food recommendations!

        • Katie Parla April 26, 2017 at 10:12 pm - Reply

          shouldnt be a problem but keep in mind restaurants typically only answer the phone during their business hours (1230-3pm & 730-11pm)

  35. Sandro November 9, 2017 at 8:16 pm - Reply

    As a Roman I think that other restaurants and coffee bars deserve a visit during Sunday.
    First Retrobottega, creative cuisine and natural wines ( vicolo della Stelletta near Piazza Navona). Osteria 140,( via dei Banchi Vecchi 140), fish and oysters. Open Baladin, beer and Hamburger ( via degli Specchi) and Bir and Food, beer and Bonci Pizza( Trastevere, via Benedetta). Pizzeria Berbere’, new, with particular types of dough ( via Mantova, near Piazza Fiume). And for a good coffee, Pergamino Caffe’, near Vatican ( Piazza Risorgimento), and Faro I Luminari, with only Specialty coffee ( near Piazza Fiume).Seeing is believing!

    • Katie Parla November 24, 2017 at 9:46 pm - Reply

      retrobottega and bir e fud are not good or they would be on the list. open baladin is good for cosi-detto scrocchette (potato croquettes) and beer. so down with pergamino but it’s excellent for coffee not food:)

  36. Heather November 24, 2017 at 4:49 pm - Reply

    Planning our family vacation to Rome next year. Going to have to try and get to one of these amazing places. Thanks so much.

  37. Sandro December 5, 2017 at 8:11 pm - Reply

    Dear Katie, I often agree with your suggestions but I’m really surprised of your bad opinion regarding “Retrobottega”.
    For me and for many others it is one of the best new restaurant opened in recent years in Rome.

  38. David February 23, 2018 at 9:08 pm - Reply

    I didn’t see the great Al Ceppo on your Sunday list. Has their schedule changed? I always eat there on Sundays (and any other day) when in Rome.

    • Katie Parla February 26, 2018 at 2:48 pm - Reply

      Hey David, it came off the list after a couple of disappointing meals:(

  39. […] to another post that it is “not good,” otherwise she would have included it among her Sunday recommendations. She covered it for Eater two years earlier (see below) but seems to have since soured on […]

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