/Rome on a Budget
1 01, 2016

C’è Pasta…e Pasta For Roman Jewish Classics

2017-02-17T15:15:08+01:00January 1st, 2016|Categories: Food & Wine, Gastronomic Traditions, Jewish/Kosher, Restaurants, Restaurants in Rome, Rome & Lazio, Rome on a Budget|Tags: |3 Comments

There’s this extraordinary slice of Rome wedged between the Stazione Trastevere, the Tiber, and McDonalds. If you can overlook the stench emitted by the latter landmarks, the place is almost perfect. In addition to its pretty pastel-hued 1920s housing blocks and views of Monte Testaccio and Gazometro, this swath of Trastevere’s […]

31 10, 2015

Halloween at Mercato di Testaccio

2017-02-17T15:15:11+01:00October 31st, 2015|Categories: Markets, Rome on a Budget|3 Comments

Daniele Sartor grilling at last month’s special opening. I’m not so into Halloween. I do love sweets and normally I’m on board for any activity that may result in piles of bite sized Milky Ways. But I hate dressing up. Ask Mamma Parla: I wore my travel soccer uniform as my costume for from 1990 [...]

19 09, 2015

Da Artenio in Rome’s Testaccio Market

2017-02-17T15:15:15+01:00September 19th, 2015|Categories: Food & Wine, Markets, Restaurants in Rome, Rome & Lazio, Rome on a Budget|Tags: |7 Comments

If you’re curious how, in spite of intense daily exercise, I keep my BMI right around (emphasis on “round”) 26, it’s simple: I eat pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner. My source for the most important meal of the day? That depends. Some mornings I find myself in the centro storico where countless Romans scarf [...]

22 05, 2015

Stavio: Craft Beer and Natural Wine in Rome

2017-02-17T15:15:24+01:00May 22nd, 2015|Categories: Beer, Restaurants in Rome, Rome & Lazio, Rome on a Budget|Tags: |1 Comment

For the past decade or so, the area just south of the center between Stazione Trastevere and the Tiber River has been undergoing a slow transformation. There are condos in an old mill, new bike paths, and at least one three-story gym. It feels like another world. But Rome is like that […]

2 12, 2014

Panificio Bonci in Rome Goes Vegetarian

2017-02-17T15:16:03+01:00December 2nd, 2014|Categories: Carbs, Food & Wine, Rome & Lazio, Rome on a Budget, Sweets & Dessert|Tags: |5 Comments

UPDATE: PANIFICIO BONCI IS NO LONGER VEGETARIAN Sorry to all my fellow meat eating, lard loving carnivores out there. Gone are the days of chowing down on a luscious slice of Vito Bernabei’s porchetta sandwiched between two crisp pieces of Bonci’s pizza bianca. As of November 3, 2014, Gabriele Bonci’s eponymous bakery on Via Trionfale [...]

28 11, 2014

The Tiber River’s Last Eel Fishermen

2017-02-17T15:16:03+01:00November 28th, 2014|Categories: Culture, Interviews, Rome on a Budget|4 Comments

Cesare and Alfredo Bergamini have been fishing for eels in the Tiber since 1947. Now 74 and 77, respectively, the brothers learned the profession from their grandfather. In post-war Rome, they shared the water with other eel fishermen–and a great deal more eels. But falling eel stock caused by pollution coupled with spiraling profitability due [...]