The Celio and Monti neighborhoods near the Colosseum and Forum have their share of authentic and noteworthy restaurants. The key is knowing where to find them.

 

Il Forno

Via dei Serpenti, 7

0648930145

A few blocks from the Forum in the Monti neighborhood is a pizza-by-the slice joint known simply as “Il Forno”- literally, the oven. Their pizza is some of Rome’s best from the classic margherita to the unusual artichoke and smoked mozzerella. Here, as in most pizzerias of its kind, the pizza is sold by weight. Adjacent to the pizza counter you can order sandwiches served on fresh pizza bianca, the local variety of foccacia, for 3.50 euros.

 

Le Numachie

Via Celiamontana, 7

067002764

Le Numachie is a busy self-service cafeteria on the ground floor and a restaurant with table service in the basement. Their pizzas and homemade pasta dishes are excellent way to refuel after a morning of site-seeing in the Forum and Colosseum.  The locals crowd into Le Numachie at lunchtime, a sign this place is worthy.

 

Taverna dei Fori Imperiali    

Via Madonna dei Monti, 16

066798643

Closed Tuesday

A restaurant that is 100 feet from the Roman Forum could theoretically serve the world’s worst food and still stay in business. Fortunately, Taverna doesn’t agree with this approach and serves fabulous pasta, meat and fish.  The inventive chef blends Roman recipes and ingredients with Sicilian influences.  

 

Taverna Romana

Via Madonna dei Monti, 79

064745325

Taverna Romana is a classic Roman osteria, serving all the staples of the local cuisine in an antiquated dining room just blocks from the Forum. Traditional Roman dishes like carbonara, amatriciana, and cacio e pepe are always on the menu. I prefer the daily specials which are determined by the season and what was fresh and available at the market.

 

Tempio di Iside

Via Pietro Verri, 11

067004741

Closed Sunday

Locals pack into Tempio’s narrow dining room and patio to sample the Mediterranean’s freshest catch. This is Rome’s best kept secret for fish and therefore offers an authentic neighborhood dining experience.  The ten item antipasto is steep at 20-30 euros a head, but definitely worth it for specialties like moscardini fritti (fried baby squids), carpaccio di gamberi rossi (raw filets of red shrimp), and involtini di pesce spada (filets of swordfish filled with pine nut stuffing).  The pasta dishes are out of this world, combining the freshest fish with delicate sauces.  Second courses like rombo al forno con patate (baked turbot with potatoes), and grigliata mista (an assortment of grilled fish) are equally divine. Reservations are recommended for dinner.