IL blog
Otranto, a compact and charming town on Salento’s Adriatic coast, is one of the region’s most endearing places. Encircled by high walls punctuated by cylindrical defensive towers, the architecture within is a pastiche of medieval, Renaissance and Baroque creations.
An excursion in the historical center should begin at Porta Alfonsina, named for the Spanish sovereign who built the city walls after the bloody attack by the Turks in 1480. From here, Via Alfonso d’Aragona meanders along, bordered by an astounding number of souvenir shops, cafes and gelaterie. A right on Via Basilica leads uphill to the Cathedral. Founded in 1080 and heavily repaired after 1480, the church was reworked in the Baroque style in the 18th century (many of these additions have since been removed). The interior’s three aisles are divided by columns recycled from ancient buildings, each topped with different capitals. The polychrome floor pavement is a vast and complex mosaic dating to the 1160s depicting the Tree of Life, biblical stories, mythological figures and zodiac signs. Restoration of the floor in the 1980s led to the discovery of an early Christian church, Roman mosaics, and Messapic tombs below. The chapel to the right of the altar contains the remains of residents decapitated by the Turks in 1480. Beneath the Cathedral is the 11th century crypt supported by ancient columns.
Returning to the Via Basilica, one encounters Corso Garibaldi, the main street in the historical center which is a veritable wall of humanity in the high season (July-Aug), when the street is also home to a daily street bazaar. From Piazza del Popolo, head up the steps to the Church of San Pietro, a 9th century Greek-cross shaped building, then onward to the Bastione dei Pelasgi for fantastic views over the sea and the port. A metal bridge leads over the ruins of the Chapel of the Imaccolata (once part of the city walls) to the 15th century Castle. The Castle is closed to the public unless it is the site of a temporary art exhibition (summers).
Puglia: Otranto
Sunday, November 4, 2007
