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Every morning, fisherman bring their catch from Naples’ bay to the shores of Via Caracciolo. Squid and fish writhe in their containers, futilely trying to escape towards the sea, some able to squirm out of their salt water tanks, only to be tossed back in by their captors. At Mergellina’s port the fisherman disappear by two, their days catch snatched up by locals and restaurants. Then the port falls into a quiet lull until dinner time when the fresh fish is prepared in homes and trattorias.
Just a block from the port, and mere meters from the Chalet of the same name, is Ristorante Ciro a Mergellina. This is where well-to-do Neapolitans have been going for nearly a century to sample the bays freshest offerings. Fish based pasta dishes like spaghetti alle vongole (with clams) and linguine all’astice are classic staples. Second courses like grilled whole fish, polipetti affogati, and frittura di paranza (small fried fish) are delectable but the portions tend to be a bit small.
While fish is the logical choice at Ciro given both its reputation and proximity to the bay, pizza or meat dishes are also served. Especially good is the mixed antipasto which features an array of grilled vegetables, fried cheese, and half-kilo balls of buffalo mozzarella.
Ristorante Ciro a Mergellina
Via Mergellina 21
081 681780
www.ciroamergellina.it
Eating in Naples: Ristorante Ciro a Mergellina
Sunday, March 4, 2007
