il blog
Salento in Apulia (Puglia) forms the heel of Italy’s boot. It is an enchanting place touched by two seas known for its hospitality and cuisine. There are three main towns that make practical bases for exploring the region: Lecce, Otranto, and Gallipoli. All are bustling in the summers, hosting popular and religious festivals. Of these, only Lecce really remains open year-round, the others grinding to a halt by November.
The best way to see Salento, regardless of the season, is to follow the litoranea (coastal road) clockwise, beginning near Lecce on the Adriatic coast and ending at Gallipoli on the Ionian coast for sunset. Just 10 km southeast of Lecce on the Adriatic is San Cataldo. Its sidewalk cafes swell with activity in the summer, especially Pasticceria Nobili, the town’s most famous pastry shop where locals swarm for their pasticciotti (individual custard pies). Further south along the Coast is Roca Vecchia were ruins of a Roman port are currently under excavation. Nearby is the Grotta della Poesia, a small grotto where bathers gather in the crystal waters. After a swim, pastries at Dentoni in Torre dell’Orso are in order. The mustazzoli, chocolate, rum and almond cookies covered in dark chocolate, are beyond compare.
Back on the road heading south, there is Sant’Andrea, a tiny fishing settlement with a series of eroded limestone outcroppings in the sea. Next is Otranto with its beautiful mixture of medieval, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. Not far from Otranto is Orte, where beaches aren’t accessible by car, necessitating a long walk through a pine forrest to reach the rocky shores.
The Grotta della Zinzalusa, just beyond Santa Cesarea Terme, is a fascinating natural wonder. The caverns are filled with stalactites and stalagmites and a variety of rare flora and fauna. Further down the road are Castro, Tricase and Novaglia, all worthy of a quick spin or a stop for a dip in the sea. Grab lunch along the way at one of the dozens of fish restaurants along the coast. Keep a look out for kiosks advertising “Ricci”, fresh sea urchins served on the half-shell. Capo Santa Maria di Leuca claims to be the “end of the world”, or at least the southernmost part of the Italian peninsula. That title actually goes to Punta Ristola, to the southwest, but Leucans are insistent. The sanctuary of Santa Maria di Leuca, or Finibus Terrae, is more interesting outside than it is within where there are views over the town’s port and the sea where the Adriatic and Ionian run together.
The waters of Salento’s Ionian coast feature a spectrum of greens and blues. The coastline is punctuated with defensive towers, a reminder of how frequently the peninsula was the object of conquest. Time permitting, head to the sandy beaches at Torre (Tower) San Giovanni, Torre Mossa, Torre Pali or Torre Vado before reaching Gallipoli for sunset.
Puglia: A day in Salento
Monday, November 5, 2007
