il blog
Sicily has been called the most conquered island in history. This may or may not be true but Sicilians firmly believe in this statement and the regional cuisine reveals the influences of Greek, Arab, Italian and Norman invaders. At Trattoria, chef Filippo La Mantia, a former anti-mafia photojournalist, serves modern Sicilian cuisine, using the ingredients of traditional dishes but molds them into unique creations. Couscous, pasta and fish are plated and garnished creatively, blending aesthetic beauty and complex flavor. In addition to its unexpected combinations, the menu at trattoria offers another surprise: the dishes are prepared without garlic or onion, without losing authenticity.
When faced with the challenge of how to begin our meal at Trattoria, my friend Petulia and I could not narrow down the appetizer selection so we both opted for the degustazione di antipasti: arancini (friend rice balls), pannella (fried chick pea fritters), and caponata (a tomato and eggplant sauce), all typical recipes. For the first course, I chose something less traditional, La Mantia’s signature couscous with citrus pesto and swordfish. This dish is certainly revolutionary compared to what what you might find on a menu in a small seaside trattoria in Palermo, but La Mantia is true to the flavors of Sicilian cuisine: sweet and sour contrasts, starches meant to soak up the spiced flavor of the accompanying sauces, and, of course, the crispness of fresh ingredients. For my second, I selected a Sicilian staple, involtini di pesce spada (swordfish filets stuffed with bread crumbs, pine nuts and spices). The portions, thankfully, allowed enough room for desert. Once again, we were unable to choose just one thing so we ordered the degustazione di dolci: cannoli, cassata, candied orange rinds, and rice pudding.
The meal was a success. Each course surpassed our expectations and we were left with a feeling of self-satisfaction for having chosen such a fantastic restaurant. Then things got even better when La Mantia came over to our table to greet us and ask how we enjoyed our meal. He offered us Abraxas’ Passito di Pantelleria, a type of desert wine made on a small island south of Sicily, and thanked us for coming. An unexpected end to a stellar dining experience.
Trattoria
Via del Pozzo delle Cornacchie, 25 (Pantheon)
0668301427
Average 50 euros, wine excluded
Eating in Rome: Trattoria
Tuesday, March 20, 2007
